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When curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. However, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small place earning such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary achievement.